Bovine or Chesapeake?

Many people think that when their Chesapeake grazes on grass, it must have an upset stomach. Others, think dogs get upset stomachs because they grazes on grass. No one really knows why dogs eat grass and it appears there are several different theories on it.

What I can tell you about Chesapeakes is that they are grass grazers and one might think they are part bovine. Chessies eat grass all the time, and not necessarily because they have an upset stomach. Now, I am not saying this won’t cause an upset stomach, as many of my dogs have woken me up in the middle of the night with grass-filled puke. I’m merely pointing out that if your Chesapeake is eating grass, it’s probably not a big concern. Rather, they just like the taste of it.

 

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Avoiding Heat Related Injuries in Dogs

This article is written by Nat Baxter, DVM. It is a good reminder on how to help avoid heat stroke in dogs, especially in these warm summer months.

The first thing that needs to be understood is that dogs and people are different enough that most of the info cannot cross lines. I do not profess to know what the appropriate procedures for people other than what I learned in first aid.

Dogs do not lose enough electrolytes thru exercise to make a difference, but if the dog gets truly into heat stroke the physiology changes will make them necessary. BUT oral replacement at that point is futile, they need intravenous fluids and electrolytes and lots of it.

 

Cooling: Evaporative cooling is the most efficient mean of cooling. However, in a muggy environment, the moisture will not evaporate so cooling does not happen well. I cool with the coldest water I can find and will use ice depending on the situation. The best way is to run water over the dog, so there is always fresh water in contact with the skin. When you immerse a dog in a tub, the water trapped in the hair coat will get warm next to the dog, and act as an insulator against the cool water and cooling stops. If you can run water over the dog and place it in front of a fan that is the best. Misting the dog with water will only help if you are in a dry environment or in front of a fan. Just getting the dog wet is not the point, you want the water to be cool itself, or to evaporate.

For MOST situations all you will need to do is get the dog in a cooler environment, ie shade, or in the cab of the truck with the air conditioning on (driving around so the truck does not overheat and the AC is more efficient). Up to a couple of years ago, I was very concerned about my dogs getting too hot in the back of my black pickup with a black cap. New white truck fixed a lot of that problem. When I had one dog I just pulled the wire crate out of the car and put it in some shade and hopefully a breeze. But having 2 dogs and running from one stake to another, that was not feasible. So I built a platform to put the wire crates on, this raises the dog up in the truck box where the air flow is better. Then I placed a 3 speed box fan in front blowing on the dogs with a foot of space to allow better airflow. I purchased a power inverter that connects to the battery and allows the 3 speed fan to run from the truck power. It has an automatic feature that prevents it from draining the battery. When I turned that fan on medium I would find that the dogs where asleep, breathing slowly and appeared very relaxed and comfortable in a matter of 20 minutes or less, even on very hot muggy days.

 

Alcohol: I do carry it for emergiencies. It is very effective at cooling due to the rapid evaporation. It should be used when other methods are not working. You should be on your way to the veterinarian before you get to this point. We recommend using rubbing alcohol, which is propylene alcohol, not ethyl, for those of you not aware. So do not try to drink it. Alcohol should be used on the pads and lower feet area where there is little more than skin and blood vessels over the bones. Use a little bit and let it evaporate, you can use too much as some is absorbed through the skin. There are concerns about toxicity, but you have to get the temperature down.

I purchased those cooling pads that you soak in cold water, but found that the dogs would not lay on them. I would hold them on the back of a dog that just worked to get a quick cool, but have not use them for years. I also bought a pair of battery operated fans but found them pretty useless. Spend your money on the power inverter and get a real fan.

 

Watching temperature: If you feel your dog is in danger of heat injury, check its temp and write it down. Keep checking the temp every 3 minutes. I recommend to get a “rectal glass thermometer. The digital ones for the drug store I have found to be very unreliable, Don’t forget to shake it down completely each time, sounds silly, but when are worried about your companion, things tend to get mixed up. This is VERY IMPORTANT**once the temp STARTS to drop, STOP ALL COOLING EFFORTS. The cooling process will continue even though you have stopped. If the temp starts at 106.5, and then next time it drops to 105.5, stop cooling the dog, dry it off, and continue monitoring. You will be amazed how it continues to go down. If you do not stop until the temp is 102, the temp will drop way too low. I cannot emphasis this point enough.

When the dog is so heated that it is panting severely, only let it have a few laps of water. Water in the stomach does not cool the dog, you just need to keep the mouth wet so the panting is more effective. Do not worry about hydration until the temp has started down. A dog panting heavily taking in large amounts of water is a risk of bloat. Due to the heavy panting they will swallow air, mixed with a large amount of water they can bloat. Once the temp is going down and panting has slowed to more normal panting then allow water. The dog will rehydrate it self after temp is normal. If the dog has a serious problem and even though you have gotten the temp normal, get the dog to a vet, as it can still need IV fluids and some medication. Also, a case of heat stroke can induce a case of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (not parvo), with a ton of very bloody diarrhea and a lot of fluid and electrolyte loss. These cases need aggressive treatment. =

The best method of treatment is prevention. Learn to watch your dog, and see the changes in the size of the tongue, and how quickly it goes down. Learn your dogs response to the different environments, and be careful when you head south for an early season hunt test or trial. I have been to Nashville at the end of May, only 5 hours away, but the difference in temp and humidity did effect the dogs as they were used to more spring weather in Ohio. Try different things in training to help the dog cool and learn what works better. Another very important point=> Do not swim your hot dog to cool it then put in put in a box/tight crate. Remember, evaporation can not take place in a tight space, and the box will turn into a sauna and you will cook your dog. Carry a stake out chain, and let the dog cool and dry before putting it up. I demonstrated this lesson this spring with my 10 monthold pup. After doing a 15 minute session in yard drill on a warm 70+ degree day, she was panting pretty hard and was pretty hot. She was OK but it was time to stop. Just for the heck of it I took her temp. She was 103.6, above normal but too bad for a dog that had just finished working. In my back yard I have a 300 gallon Rubbermaid tub filled with water. I took her to it and she jumped in and out 3-4 times. She appeared totally improved, tongue was much smaller, and eyes brighter and her full spring was back into her step. So I re-took her temp and it was 104.2, so even though she looked better she was hotter. This is a perfect lesson to show not get a hot dog wet and then put them in a box. The water on her skin caused the blood vessels to constrict, decreasing blood flow to the skin. Therefore the hot blood was shunted back to the dog’s core and retianed the heat. You may have felt the same thing, after exercising but still being very warm, take a shower and get cooled off but as soon as you turn the shower off you start sweating again.

I know this is a bit long, but hopefully this is easy to understand and helps provide some useful information.Remember: Prevention, learn your dog. It is worth the time and effort.

Chesapeake Bay Retriever Puppies

Doggie in the Window

Chesapeake Bay Retriever puppies

Chesapeake Bay Retriever puppies

Recently, a co-worker of my mother’s asked for help in locating a well-bred, well-tempered, healthy, pedigreed puppy as a family dog.

The person asking for this puppy was adamant that the puppy be available in the fall as they were traveling this summer and didn’t have time to care for a puppy.

After talking with me, we felt a nicely bred easy-going Golden Retriever would be a great match for this family– and I knew just the person to hook them up with.

Needless to say,there was a bit of a surprise when we found out this family, who requested our assistance, picked up a 15-week old  “AKC registered” puppy from a pet store – PetLand pet store – “because the kids liked it.”

Whoa. Wait-a-minute. Let’s back-up and talk about this.

First, let’s discuss what AKC registered means. All AKC registered means is that there is a background history of parents, grand-parents, great-grandparents. It’s a registry – nothing more nothing less. This does not mean their pet-store puppy is of greater or lesser quality because it is “AKC registered.”

Second, let’s talk about where puppy store puppies come from.

Puppy store puppies come from puppy mills. It is a multi-million dollar industry and a horrific one. Dogs are kept in small cages and are bred over and over and over again simply for the puppies they produce.

These so called breeders have no concern for health, temperament, health testing/clearances or anything else regarding the parents or the offspring they produce. All they see is the almighty dollar their puppies will bring in. It is not uncommon for these dogs to have multiple genetic issues and by buying a puppy from a pet store you are supporting these practices.

Google Puppy Mill images and you will see what you are supporting by buying your “because my kids liked it”  $800/$900/$1,000/$1,400++puppy store puppy.

The Amish puppy mills in Pennsylvania are some of the best known.

So, what becomes of the puppies from these dogs? They are sold to a broker and the broker then sells them to a puppy store. Now you know where the mark-up comes from for these pet store puppies. The Hunte Corporation is one of the largest, if not the largest, puppy broker organization in the U.S.

By buying a puppy from a pet store, you are supporting puppy mills, please, don’t do it. Please say no to that doggie in the window.

There are hundreds of good breeders out there, there is no need to support puppy mills.

Most breeders I know, live, eat, breath their dogs. They spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars doing health clearances to help reduce the chances of your puppy getting a genetic defect. Most breeders I know, work and show their dogs to help identify the strengths and weakness of their breeding dogs. Most breeders I know, raise puppies in a house, under foot, where they are handled and loved on daily. Most breeders I know, offer unconditional support for the lifetime of the puppy. Most breeders I know, will take your puppy back if it didn’t work out. And most breeders I know sell their well-bred, well-loved, well-cared for puppies from health-tested parents for about the same price as a pet store puppy.

Please. Think before you buy. Do your research. Not all breeders are the same. 

Why I Won’t Sell Two Puppies From the Same Litter to One Home

Chesapeake Bay Retriever Puppy in X-Pen

Chesapeake Bay Retriever Puppy in X-Pen

It doesn’t happen often, but every once in a while I am contacted by someone wanting two puppies from a single litter.  While there may be some extenuating circumstances in some cases, in 99% of my responses my answer is simply  – “no.” This especially holds true for someone who has never owned a Chesapeake Bay Retriever before.

I am sure the inquiring party ends up somewhat disappointed when I tell them that I will not sell two puppies from a single litter to the same home. And I’m sure it doesn’t help matters any when I tell them, I will NOT sell another puppy from one of my litters to that  home until the first puppy is AT LEAST a year old.  This usually leads to the question, why? Why won’t I sell two puppies under a year of age to the same home?

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever, while a wonderful breed of dog, is not the easiest of breeds for many. Hundreds of pure-bred Chesapeakes end up in shelters and rescues across the United States each year due to lack of socialization, lack of training, lack of exercise and lack of direction/guidance. While I believe all dogs need proper socialization, time and training, this  holds especially true for a Chesapeake. Here are a few of the top reasons why I will not sell two puppies to the same home.

  • Young puppies tend to bond very closely with each other rather than their owners, to the point where the dog-human relationship becomes secondary to their dog-dog relationship. As the puppies grow, this super-bonding can often manifest in stress-related behaviors (separation anxiety) on the occasion when the dogs do have to be separated.
  • Owners often underestimate the time commitment required to properly care for, train and socialize two puppies. And as a result, the puppies often end up untrained and under socialized.

While I mentioned before that I believe all dogs need socialization and training, this is really not an option but rather a necessity for Chesapeake puppies due to their natural guarding instincts and high intelligence.   To raise two Chessie puppies together properly is not twice as much work – it’s more like four times as much.

  • Due to health reasons associated with early spaying and neutering, I recommend to owners to not spay/neuter their puppies until they are at least a year of age.  While many owners think it’d be great to have two littermate puppies (brother/sister) together, they often (more times than not) are not equipped to handle an intact male and female should she come into season between 6 months and a year of age. Many ‘accidental’ litters have happened between siblings at ages far too young (with no health clearances) because they were sold together.
  • Lastly, I do not recommend getting two puppies close together in age as that means they grow old at the same time. It’s hard enough losing one dog as they age, let alone two in a very short amount of time.

These are just a few of the reasons why I won’t sell two puppies from the same litter to the same household – especially to someone with no experience raising one Chessie.

I often recommend, if you are new to the breed, to get one puppy and spend the time raising it properly with plenty of socialization and training. Get that dog where you’d like it to be and when it is a year or two old then consider getting a second one. At that time the first puppy will be housebroken, bonded to you, will know basic obedience and will have outgrown the terrible puppy phases (we hope). Not only will this make it easier on the owner (less work raising one puppy than two) but it will also allow the new dog, who has good habits instilled, help train the new puppy.

And, for the record, I very rarely keep two puppies of the same age or from the same litter for myself.

Saying good-bye

Well. Where to begin?

Today, I laid to rest one of my beautiful puppies due to lymphoma –  cancer which affects the lymph nodes. She was only 3 years old and there was nothing we could do. She was taken from  me much, much too soon. My heart aches for her loss.

Lymphoma, although it can affect any age, is most common in middle aged/older dogs.

Saturday night, after giving her a bath, from which she drank a lot of water, her neck/face and lymph nodes swelled up. I also noticed she looked to have fluid in her abdomen. I *knew* what it was, but hoped for something different, something treatable.

Today the vet confirmed; there was nothing that could be done.

Note, up until Saturday when the swelling occurred, she was bright, energetic, happy with no real symptoms of being deathly ill. Even when her face became swollen horribly she was bright, attentive, happy.

Needless to say, today sucked.

May my beautiful girl rest peacefully.

Julep

Chesapeake Bay Retriever Puppies

Options; it’s all about options.

Chesapeake Bay Retriever Puppy in X-Pen

Chesapeake Bay Retriever Puppy in X-Pen

Daily I am contacted by people interested in a Chesapeake puppy. Some of these inquiries have had Chessies before, others have not. Most who inquire about a puppy simply ask for the price and very, very few ask about temperament or the health of the dogs. Even less ask about me – my policies, my thoughts on breeding practices, how my dogs live, what do I do with my dogs (if anything). As such, I have found for many inquiring about a dog price is the determining factor. When asked about my prices, some are surprised, others not so much. However, in the end it all boils down to options.

The price for a well-bred Chesapeake puppy typically ranges between $850 and $1,500 with $1,000-$1,200 being the average. Yes, you can find Chessie puppies cheaper out there on the Internet. And yes, you can even find them more expensive. However, buyers beware. Not all breeders, not all litters, and not all circumstances in which litters are raised and dogs kept are the same. In the end, it all comes down to options and what one feels most comfortable with.

Here are some ‘general’ options. Some breeders may overlap scenarios (for example some breeders in B might belong in Option A while some might belong in Option C. They key is to use this is a guideline and then do your research. If you are going to spend your hard earned money on a puppy – be informed and educated on your options and what makes them different from one another.

Options: BREEDERS

Not all breeders are the same and it can be difficult to weed through some of the Internet marketing ploys, gimmicks and fancy talk. Some breeders are sincere; others just want your money. As a buyer, think of your purchase as an investment. As an investment it is your responsibility to be an educated purchaser.

Before I go into the different breeder options, I want to state that there are several health issues in the Chesapeake breed. We have elbow dysplasia, hip dysplasia, inheritable cataracts, degenerative myelopathy (DM), EIC (exercised induced collapse), progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), seizures, thyroidal issues, autoimmune issues – oh the list goes on. Some of these items can be tested for. This allows breeders to make decisions as to which dogs they breed and why. Sometimes the best breedings on paper can wind up with issues.  However, I am a firm believer in trying to stack odds in my favor, when possible.

Option A

Breeder A – $350-$500: this breeder does no health clearances on any of their dogs. They say they have ‘champions in the bloodlines’ or that their dogs are ‘full-blooded’ (I sure hope the dog is full of blood). Most of these puppies are produced with no reason other than to just have a litter to have a litter. Sometimes the parents are breed over and over again with no regards to how the dogs match up. They think having a litter is a great idea because a.) they think they can make money b) they have two dogs so why not breed them c) they think it’ll calm the female down — among other things. This breeder wants your money, gives you your dog, and you never hear from them again.

Option B

Breeder B – $750-$800: hips are certified. No other clearances. Breeding for same basic reasons as above only they justify the prices because hips are certified or because the dogs are ‘registered’ pure-breds.

 

Option C

Breeder C – $850 – $1,500: dogs have multiple health certifications including but not limited to DM, EIC, HIPS, CERF, PRA. Many times these breeders evaluate for temperament, work ability and structure. You will often see these dogs active in different dog venues such as showing, hunt tests, field trials just to name a few. Many of these breeders laugh and cry with you as you and your puppy grow together. Some become not only a ‘breeder’ of your dog but they also become good friends.

However, even within this price range there is good and there is bad. Some breeders pay attention to temperament, some do not. Some breeders provide lifetime follow-up/support for their puppies, some do not. Some over market, over inflate their dogs value/worth with sales ploys. Do your research.

Options: ADOPTION

There are a couple of options for adoption. My referral would be to work with a reputable rescue organization, such as Chesapeake Bay Retriever Relief & Rescue (www.cbrrescue.org). Rescue organizations typically house dogs in foster homes where they are evaluated with other dogs and people. They also provide basic health care to the dog ensuring that the dogs are up to date on shots, spayed/neutered, and heart worm negative (or treated) before going to their new home. With that said, however, many fine dogs have come directly from shelters as well.

Option D

Rescue – $150-$450: many wonderful dogs end up in rescue each year due to no fault of their own. By considering, and adopting, a slightly older dog, you give that dog a wonderful new start on life and that dog will give you the love/companionship you seek.

While there are many pro’s to adopting there is one thing to note – *most* of the time the history/background on dogs in rescue is unknown. These dogs come from a variety of backgrounds – shelter surrenders, owner surrenders, picked up as strays etc.. as such, many times we just don’t know their history.

Some people care about this. Some do not. Regardless, it is something to be aware of… This means that rescue will not know if your dog has PRA (or if the parents did). Rescue cannot tell you that his/her parents/grandparents had long lifespans of 10, 12, 15 years or whether the parents had DM. This means those nuances that your dog might do will often remain a mystery. And, that’s ok, for some.

Option E

Adopt from a Shelter. Many dogs are listed in shelters each day/week. Adoption fees vary from shelter to shelter. They can range from $50 up to $150. Adoption fees vary from shelter to shelter. They also may or may not include heart worm testing, spaying/neutering and vaccinations. Typically these dogs have not had any real evaluation. This means they might be bad with other dogs, they might’ve been surrendered to the shelter due to a bite history or due to food aggression, they might’ve been strays and nothing is known other than it’s a brown dog on the side of the road. When you adopt directly from a shelter you take on some potential risks that rescue helps offset by having dogs live in foster homes first.

Options: MISCELLANEOUS

Option F

Purchase an older dog from a breeder. Some breeders, at some point, offer slightly older dogs that either didn’t work out in a breeding program or was bred at one time and is now ‘retired.’ These dogs can sometimes make great companions and are often placed at a reduced cost. From a reputable breeder, the history, health, pedigree, etc.. are usually known.

Like I said, it boils down to options and what one feels most comfortable with.

I often tell people who are looking for a puppy – find someone, a breeder, you like. Get to know them. Get to know what they believe in. Get to know what their support is like. Are they there when you have questions? Are they there to help you if you have a training issue? Are they there when you have a concern? Once you find someone you trust, be put on their waiting list. Depending on the breeder, it might take a year for that puppy to come along but your time and efforts will be worth the wait in the long run.

Also,  if you are buying a puppy, buy one from someone who does health clearances. The initial investment of a puppy is very small compared to the cost and care of the dog over its lifetime. While the best of breedings can sometime go awry, if you are paying $700, $800, a thousand dollars for a puppy – don’t you want to try and stack the odds in your favor?

Our puppy owners become an extended part of our family – dog family, but our family no less. While you can’t pick and choose your real family, you most certainly can pick your dog family. It all comes down to options.

Sometimes it’s for the best.

Chesapeake Bay Retriever  Puppy

Sometimes, no matter how hard we try to screen a home, life just happens and a puppy just doesn’t work out for one reason or another.

This is “Bear”, a male Chesapeake Bay Retriever puppy. His name was formally “Willoughby”. When Bear was about 12 -weeks old he was returned to us. He didn’t do anything wrong and there was nothing wrong with him. His new owners just were not as equipped to handle a young dog, a puppy, as they thought they might be.

Thankfully, I quickly made a phone call to a seasoned Chessie home and they welcomed the puppy into their home with open arms.

Bear is currently 7 months old and is doing some field training as he will be hunted over later this year. His owner reports he’s doing doubles and is casting in any direction and he told me today, that he cannot stress how impressed he is with how easy he learns.

My point is not that he’s a fabulous puppy (although I do think he’s pretty cute) but that sometimes when a home doesn’t work out it’s for the best
.