Chesapeake Coat

The Chesapeake coat is double coated—that is, it has both a soft wooly undercoat and a coarser topcoat (outer coat).

Shedding

Many people ask me “Do Chesapeakes shed?” Yes, Chesapeakes shed and some shed a lot. If you’re looking for the next non-shedding, low maintenance dog then a Chesapeake is not for you.

Most Chesapeakes shed their undercoat twice a year and regrow it again as colder weather comes in; this is also referred to as blowing coat. In many climates, the topcoat and undercoat might shed continuously in greater and smaller quantities all year.

The pattern in which a Chesapeake may shed its coat will vary from dog to dog. Some, will shed minimally but continuously; others, will shed in patches while others will go nearly bald all over.

To help the shedding process you can:

1. Give the dog warm baths to help remove the undercoat
2. Brush (I do this outside) with a Zoom Groom type brush

If your dog’s hair does not start growing back after a month or two, then the shedding might be caused by nutrition or some underlying medical issue. Nutrition plays a big part in coat and each dog is different. For example, my oldest girl goes nearly bald (sheds much more) when she eats ProPlan dog food. However, my youngest does very well on it. A common medical issue in Chessies, thyroidism, can also cause hairloss.

Colors

There are three basic colors in the breed Brown, Sedge and Deadgrass. Brown, is from a very light, silvered brown to a rich deep dark bittersweet chocolate. Sedge is from a reddish yellow through varying chestnut shades to a bright red. Deadgrass varies from faded tan to a dull straw color.  The difference between Sedge and Deadgrass is that Deadgrass contain no significant amount of red, while Sedge does.

Some Chesapeakes have varying degrees of other markings such as: masking on topskull, brindling (a striping effect of light & dark through the body and on the legs), distinct & indistinct saddle markings, agouti coloring and tan points. All are acceptable, but are not preferred, and should not be disqualified in the conformation ring.

There are two color disqualifications in the breed: black coloring and white on any part of the body except breast, belly, toes or back of feet. White which extends above the point of the sternum, whether connected or unconnected to white below, is a disqualifying location. Premature graying does occur in Chesapeakes and should not be cause for disqualification. White is also allowed on the toes and on the back of the feet. Legal white can also occur on the sheath of the penis. The preputial region is a subregion of the pubic portion of the abdomen, in common terms belly.

Chesapeake Bay Retriever Puppy Retrieving a Bumper

Feeding Schedule

Chesapeake puppies tummies can be sensitive to food changes so we suggest you keep your pup on the same food. If you decide to change his/her food it needs to be done very gradually.

Set a feeding schedule…

We highly suggest setting a feeding schedule for your puppy — and keeping to it — which will aide in housebreaking.Your Chessie puppy has been eating three times a day at approximately 6:30 a.m. (breakfast), 12:00 p.m. (lunch), and 6:00 p.m. (dinner).  This schedule is not cast in stone and can fluctuate slightly.  However, we recommend the final feeding be no later that 7:00 p.m.  This will allow enough time for the puppy to go outside a few times before bedtime.

Your puppy’s breakfast should be given after he/she has gone potty outside and had a little play session.  Lunch should be given approximately halfway between the breakfast and dinner feedings. At first,  give your puppy about 3/4 cup of food.  Let the pup have access to the food for about 15 minutes.  If there is any food left in the bowl after 15 minutes, then pick up what hasn’t been eaten. Do not give him/her more food until the next feeding time. At that time, give the puppy its normal allotted food amount.  Continue this through his/her scheduled feedings

As Chessie puppies grow, so do their appetites.  If your puppy consistently finishes all of the food offered, and he/she isn’t overweight, then you can increase the amount foodd, 1/4 cup at a time.  Many Chessie puppies eat a lot, and will act famished even if they aren’t.  Be careful not to overfeed.  It is important that your puppy not become overweight.  You should be able to feel the ribs quite readily when your pup is standing.

We do NOT recommend free feeding your Chessie.

Three feedings to two …

By six months of age, we recommend a twice a day feeding schedule. At this time take the same amount of food you have been feeding in a day and divide it into two feedings.  At one year you may switch to feeding once a day.

Switching foods …

Typically, adult female Chessies eat between 1 and 3 cups per day, while males eat between 3 and 5 cups per day.  Food consumption varies from dog to dog based on individual metabolism and activity level. It is not recommended to feed the amount on the packaging – instead, feed according to your dogs needs. If your dog looks a little plump, then cut him/her back 1/4 cup. If your pup looks thin, then increase his/her food.

If you feel you need to switch foods. Please do so gradually to help avoid stomach upset. Below is a general guideline on how to switch foods:

Day 1 & 2: feed 3/4 old food and 1/4 new food (mixed together)
Day 3 & 4: feed 1/2 old food and 1/2 new food (mixed together)
Day 5 & 6: feed 3/4 new food and 1/4 old food (mixed together)
Day 7: feed 100% new food

Puppy Policy

Thank you for your interest in one of our puppies.

Socialization and early training are essential for Chessie puppies to develop into confident well-rounded adults. In our home, puppies are handled daily and are exposed to a variety of different items and environments as they grow including, but not limited too, other dogs & people, water, birds and gun shot when appropriate.

Sky

CoolWaters Night Sky – “Skylar”

Litters are bred with the primary goal of keeping something for ourselves. As such, we are very selective about what we breed and we have very few litters.  Due to this, we reserve the right to evaluate and pick our choice(s) from the litter regardless of sex or color before any pet puppy picks are made. These evaulations are usually done at seven or eight weeks of age. Unless other arrangements have been made, all pet puppies are sold on AKC Limited Registration which means the puppy cannot be bred or shown in conformation events but may participate in obedience, agility, hunt tests or any other performance event.

All CoolWater puppies are examined by a licensed Florida veterinarian and sold with a current Florida State health certificate. Per Florida law, puppies do not go to their new homes until 8 weeks of age. They are wormed at 4, 6, and 8 weeks and vaccinated according to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA). They have dew claws removed,  are microchipped and have their first series of shots. Please note that according to the AAHA’s vaccination protocol many vaccinations can be given every three (3) years instead of annually. We strongly suggest you share AAHA’s Canine Vaccine Guidelines with your veterinarian to discuss a protocol that will work for you and your pet.

CoolWaters Perfect Storm

CoolWaters Perfect Storm – “Surge”

Each puppy will go home with a packet that includes record of vaccinations and wormings, feeding instructions, follow-up care instructions, a copy of all contracts & guarantees, pictures and clearances of parents and other Chessie related material. All puppies are registered with the CoolWater prefix and formal names will be submitted by us. However, we are open to any ideas or suggestions you may have.

We understand that certain circumstances may happen where you are no longer able to provide a home for your CoolWater Chesapeake. We ask that you contact us immediately and offer us first right of refusal. Your CoolWater Chessie should never end up in a shelter or be homeless.

We welcome all inquiries and are happy to hear from and talk to you about this wonderful breed!

Jala CoolWater Cali

Articles

Chesapeake Bay Retrievers have an interesting background and many stories have been written about the breed. Here, you will find a small collection of  articles and stories that I have found. Please take a moment and read through them.

If you are wondering whether a Chesapeake Bay Retriever is right for you, I recommend reading these two articles first: Don’t Buy a Chessie and Chessies Aren’t For Everyone. If, after reading these two articles, you are still wondering if a Chessie is right for you, feel free to contact me: [email protected]. I’m happy to discuss the breed with you and help you make an informed decision for you and your family.

Below, is a list of books and stories written about the breed. If you know of others that should be added to the list, please let me know.

Title: Author

  • The Complete Chesapeake Bay Retriever: Eloise Heller Cherry
  • Batfishing in the Rainforest: Randy Wayne White
  • Dara: Autobiography of a Chesapeake Bay Retriever: Lolo Sarnoff
  • Life with Grover A Cheapeake Bay Retriever: Alexander Crosby Brown
  • Iron Men and their Dogs: Ferdinand C. Latrobe
  • The New Complete Chesapeake Bay Retriever: Dr. Daniel Horn & Janet Horn
  • Chesapeake Bay Retriever Champions, 1988 – 2000: Jan Linzy
  • Chesapeake Bay Retariever Champions, 2001 – 2005: Jan Linzy
  • A History of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever: Eloise Heller (1967 – a rare find)
CH Silvercreek's Spiced Rum

Standard

Chesapeake Bay Retriever Breed Standard


Sporting Group

General Appearance

Equally proficient on land and in the water, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever was developed along the Chesapeake Bay to hunt waterfowl under the most adverse weather and water conditions, often having to break ice during the course of many strenuous multiple retrieves. Frequently the Chesapeake must face wind, tide and long cold swims in its work. The breed’s characteristics are specifically suited to enable the Chesapeake to function with ease, efficiency and endurance. In head, the Chesapeake’s skull is broad and round with a medium stop. The jaws should be of sufficient length and strength to carry large game birds with an easy, tender hold. The double coat consists of a short, harsh, wavy outer coat and a dense, fine, wooly undercoat containing an abundance of natural oil and is ideally suited for the icy rugged conditions of weather the Chesapeake often works in. In body, the Chesapeake is a strong, well-balanced, powerfully built animal of moderate size and medium length in body and leg, deep and wide in chest, the shoulders built with full liberty of movement, and with no tendency to weakness in any feature, particularly the rear. The power though, should not be at the expense of agility or stamina. Size and substance should not be excessive as this is a working retriever of an active nature.

Distinctive features include eyes that are very clear, of yellowish or amber hue, hindquarters as high or a trifle higher than the shoulders, and a double coat which tends to wave on shoulders, neck, back and loins only.

The Chesapeake is valued for its bright and happy disposition, intelligence, quiet good sense, and affectionate protective nature. Extreme shyness or extreme aggressive tendencies are not desirable in the breed either as a gun dog or companion.

Disqualifications: Specimens that are lacking in breed characteristics should be disqualified.

Size, Proportion, Substance

Height–Males should measure 23 to 26 inches; females should measure 21 to 24 inches. Oversized or undersized animals are to be severely penalized. Proportion–Height from the top of the shoulder blades to the ground should be slightly less than the body length from the breastbone to the point of buttocks. Depth of body should extend at least to the elbow. Shoulder to elbow and elbow to ground should be equal. Weight–Males should weigh 65 to 80 pounds; females should weigh 55 to 70 pounds.

Head

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever should have an intelligent expression. Eyes are to be medium large, very clear, of yellowish or amber color and wide apart. Ears are to be small, set well up on the head, hanging loosely, and of medium leather. Skull is broad and round with a medium stop. Nose is medium short. Muzzle is approximately the same length as the skull, tapered, pointed but not sharp. Lips are thin, not pendulous. Bite–Scissors is preferred, but a level bite is acceptable.

Disqualifications: Either undershot or overshot bites are to be disqualified.

Neck, Topline, Body

Neck should be of medium length with a strong muscular appearance, tapering to the shoulders. Topline should show the hindquarters to be as high as or a trifle higher than the shoulders. Back should be short, well coupled and powerful. Chest should be strong, deep and wide. Rib cage barrel round and deep. Body is of medium length, neither cobby nor roached, but rather approaching hollowness from underneath as the flanks should be well tucked up. Tail of medium length; medium heavy at the base. The tail should be straight or slightly curved and should not curl over back or side kink.

Forequarters

There should be no tendency to weakness in the forequarters. Shoulders should be sloping with full liberty of action, plenty of power and without any restrictions of movement. Legs should be medium in length and straight, showing good bone and muscle. Pasterns slightly bent and of medium length. The front legs should appear straight when viewed from front or rear. Dewclaws on the forelegs may be removed. Well webbed hare feet should be of good size with toes well-rounded and close.

Hindquarters

Good hindquarters are essential. They should show fully as much power as the forequarters. There should be no tendency to weakness in the hindquarters. Hindquarters should be especially powerful to supply the driving power for swimming. Legs should be medium length and straight, showing good bone and muscle. Stifles should be well angulated. The distance from hock to ground should be of medium length. The hind legs should look straight when viewed from the front or rear. Dewclaws, if any, must be removed from the hind legs.

Disqualifications: Dewclaws on the hind legs are a disqualification.

Coat

Coat should be thick and short, nowhere over 1½ inches long, with a dense fine wooly undercoat. Hair on the face and legs should be very short and straight with a tendency to wave on the shoulders, neck, back and loins only. Moderate feathering on rear of hindquarters and tail is permissible.
The texture of the Chesapeake’s coat is very important, as the Chesapeake is used for hunting under all sorts of adverse weather conditions, often working in ice and snow. The oil in the harsh outer coat and wooly undercoat is of extreme value in preventing the cold water from reaching the Chesapeake’s skin and aids in quick drying. A Chesapeake’s coat should resist the water in the same way that a duck’s feathers do. When the Chesapeake leaves the water and shakes, the coat should not hold water at all, being merely moist.

Disqualifications: A coat that is curly or has a tendency to curl all over the body must be disqualified. Feathering on the tail or legs over 1¾ inches long must be disqualified.

Color

The color of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever must be as nearly that of its working surroundings as possible. Any color of brown, sedge or deadgrass is acceptable, self-colored Chesapeakes being preferred. One color is not to be preferred over another. A white spot on the breast, belly, toes, or back of the feet (immediately above the large pad) is permissible, but the smaller the spot the better, solid colored preferred. The color of the coat and its texture must be given every consideration when judging on the bench or in the ring. Honorable scars are not to be penalized.

Disqualifications: Black colored; white on any part of the body except breast, belly, toes, or back of feet must be disqualified

Gait

The gait should be smooth, free and effortless, giving the impression of great power and strength. When viewed from the side, there should be good reach with no restrictions of movement in the front and plenty of drive in the rear, with good flexion of the stifle and hock joints. Coming at you, there should be no sign of elbows being out. When the Chesapeake is moving away from you, there should be no sign of cowhockness from the rear. As speed increases, the feet tend to converge toward a center line of gravity.

Temperament

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever should show a bright and happy disposition with an intelligent expression. Courage, willingness to work, alertness, nose, intelligence, love of water, general quality and, most of all, disposition should be given primary consideration in the selection and breeding of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever.

Disqualifications:
1. Specimens lacking in breed characteristics.
2. Teeth overshot or undershot.
3. Dewclaws on the hind legs.
4. Coat curly or with a tendency to curl all over the body.
5. Feathering on the tail or legs over 1¾ inches long.
6. Black colored.
7. White on any part of the body except breast, belly, toes, or back of feet.

The question of coat and general type of balance takes precedence over any scoring table which could be drawn up. The Chesapeake should be well proportioned, an animal with a good coat and well balanced in other points being preferable to one excelling in some but weak in others.

Positive Scale of Points

Head, including lips, ears and eyes 16
Neck 4
Shoulders and body 12
Hindquarters and stifles 12
Elbows, legs and feet 12
Color 4
Stern and tail 10
Coat and texture 18
General conformation 12
Total 100

 

Approximate Measurements Inches
Length head, nose to occiput
9½ to 10
Girth at ears
20 to 21
Muzzle below eyes
10 to 10½
Length of ears
4½ to 5
Width between eyes
2½ to 2¾
Girth neck close to shoulder
20 to 22
Girth at flank
24 to 25
Length from occiput to tail base
34 to 35
Girth forearms at shoulders
10 to 10½
Girth upper thigh
19 to 20
From root to root of ear, over skull
5 to 6
Occiput to top shoulder blades
9 to 9½
From elbow to elbow over the shoulders
25 to 26

Approved November 9, 1993
Effective December 31, 1993

PRA

What is PRA?

Below are extracted pieces of the article,  Breeders Ask Optigen… The Whys and Wherefores of Testing Your Dog for PRA by Mary M. Woodsen. For the purpose of this Web site, it has been condensed and updated for Chesapeake Bay Retrievers.

Chesapeake Bay Retrievers gained access to the first genetic test in 1998. The test is by OptiGen and it detects prcd-PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) in CBRs. The test is now in its third rendition.

What is PRA? Is there any way to treat it? Can I prevent it?

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA–and specifically, the prcd form of PRA) is an inherited eye disease that affects not only Chesapeake Bay Retrievers but several other breeds as well. Dogs with prcd-PRA, over time, go blind.

In most breeds PRA is evident by the time a dog is at least six years old, after it has already been bred. In order to develop PRA, a dog must inherit two copies of the defective prcd-PRA gene: one from its dam, one from its sire. There’s no cure, no treatment; no way to stop it.PRA, however, can be prevented in the next generation even though you can’t treat it in the current generation. Through safe, selective breeding based on a simple DNA test.

Marker-based genetic testing. 

There are two general types of marker tests used in genetic testing, and sometimes they’re confused. Our’s is a marker (linkage) test with No Chance of Recombination. This means that the marker is close enough to the gene that its chance of splitting away from that gene during meiosis (sexual reproduction) and skewing the test is less than one in several billion! (Some types of marker [linkage] tests do allow for recombination, which means that the test can give either false positive or false negative results. In other words, a small percentage of dogs that test as genetic normals could actually be a carrier or affected, and visa versa.)

This test, in fact, designates a dog as genetically normal (clear) with absolute, unequivocal, totally reliable, 100%-no-ifs-ands-or-buts accuracy. And that’s good news, because you can take your otherwise really great dog that happens to test as (probable) carrier or (probable) affected and breed it to a certified (no ifs ands or buts) normal–and know that no pup will ever be affected.

What does “probable” carrier and “probable” affected mean?

The problem with markers is this: way back when the first pup was born with a mutated gene, the gene’s marker didn’t mutate too. Indeed, that pup was the very first carrier. Of course, it still had its parents’ other healthy gene, and passed one or the other of the pair along to each of its pups. Today, dogs testing as carriers and affecteds either carry that ancestral pup’s damaged gene-plus-marker–or they carry that pup’s parent’s normal gene-plus-marker. But which gene, which marker? We can’t tell–we haven’t found the gene yet, and the markers look just alike. We call this look-alike marker a false allele.

This ancestral, normal gene-plus-marker–the false allele–is the wild card. Thus a dog may test as Pattern B (probable carrier) yet carry two normal genes, one of which has those look-alike markers. Likewise a probable affected–a Pattern C dog–may carry one damaged and one normal gene–or less likely, two normal genes. That’s why we use the designations “Pattern B” and “Pattern C”: because some Bs aren’t carriers and some Cs aren’t affected.

The marker for Pattern A has never accompanied a mutated gene and thus could never have a false allele.

Explain, please, what an allele is.

Alleles (say it a-lee-el) are different versions of the same gene. Does your sister have brown eyes, your brother hazel eyes, but yours are blue? In humans, eye color is caused by different alleles of the “eye-color gene.” (Eye color is a bit more complex in dogs.) In the same way, genes for retinal functioning have different forms, or alleles, and the defective gene is one. In fact, even markers have alleles. One of those alleles always accompanies the mutated gene, but in its ancestral form, it sometimes accompanies the normal gene.

How can you offer a test if it isn’t accurate?

Our definition of “accuracy” has to do with the detection of the markers used in the laboratory. The OptiGen test for the markers of PRA is exactly accurate. This means that the test gives clear readings in the laboratory; there is no issue of interpreting what we see–no false positive. (A false allele result is not a false positive result.) Numerous controls–absolute measures of accuracy–are used for every sample we process. The results for every dog will never change with age and will be the same whenever this current test is repeated. (In contrast, a false positive reading can change.) Pattern A dogs will always test as Pattern A. Likewise, Bs will always be Bs and Cs will always be Cs. These are lifetime guarantees–and they are accurate. As scientists we are necessarily bound to this definition of accuracy, and could not state it differently.

So a C dog can be normal, clear?

Yes, that’s possible, if it has two false alleles–two look-alike markers. Then sure, it’s actually normal, but this genetic test can’t prove it normal. It may indeed be normal but the best you dare guess, if you have a normal ERG and the dog is over six years old, is that it’s a carrier. You still need to breed it with caution to certified clears. Don’t worry – within a couple generations you can breed completely clear progeny.

Given that a dog comes back as a B or a C, what is the next best course to follow to determine its true genetic status? Should we test its parents, or perhaps its offspring or grandchildren? How do we find out if the dog really has a false allele and what do we do about it?

The markers to the prcd gene are inherited, just as is the prcd gene itself. If the look-alike false allele is involved in one dog, it will be passed from one generation to the next. Which means that testing parents, offspring or grandpups won’t help you figure out that a false allele is involved. If a dog is Pattern C (probable affected) and is bred to an A (no ifs ands or buts, it’s clear) dog, every one of its progeny will (alas) test as Pattern B (probable carrier). Genetics just doesn’t happen any other way. (Depending on what other dogs have been used as mates in the past, offspring of past matings could test as Pattern C, probable affected).

But until we have an improved prcd test, there’s no unequivocal way to determine the true genetic status for the mutation in Pattern B and C dogs–and thus no way to say that any dog definitely has a false allele. “Normal” eye exams and ERGs, the lack of apparent symptoms into old age, even a seemingly flawless pedigree–none of these unequivocally deny the possibility of having at least one mutated gene.

Why bother to run a test that does not detect the false allele?

If you want to prevent PRA this test will do the job. If you want to eliminate the mutated prcd gene from your lines over a span of two or three generations, this test will do the job–if you follow safe breeding practices, using Bs and Cs wisely so as to retain their other excellent qualities. You should test before breeding and always choose a Pattern A dog as one of the breeding pair. If you want to know beyond any conceivable doubt that your dogs are carriers or affecteds, this test will not do the job.

Understandably, it’s difficult for owners to accept that the frequency of the false allele is unknown. It’s human nature to prefer certainty. But give your Bs and Cs two or three generations; you can breed certainty into your line by breeding them only to A dogs–and likely you’ll be ahead of those who decide to wait for the mutation-based test.

Our breeders are flabbergasted about the amount of B’s and C’s. This just cannot be true–and the results certainly aren’t “occasional!” If these dogs are really B or C, we would have had many more blind dogs or dogs with PRA diagnosis, and we don’t. Why?

Indeed, this situation is being reported more often than “occasionally.” This most likely means that the false allele is more common than we initially predicted based on results from the pedigrees in our research group. If we could rewrite our literature, knowing what we know now, we’d suggest a more frequent occurrence of the false allele–even though we still can’t put a number on that frequency.

Part of this situation is due to prcd-PRA being a recessive disease and part is due to the false allele. Consider:

Part I, Recessive inheritance of prcd-PRA:
– If–for example only–the real, true frequency of PRA in Chessies were something like 5%. In such a case, the expected frequency of carriers in the population-at-large would be 35%. That is just a fact of inheritance based on calculations of gene frequencies of recessive conditions. Even that number might seem high to breeders. To our knowledge, the real frequency of PRA in Chessies isn’t known. We have used 5% only as an example to show that even with a low frequency of prcd-PRA, the carrier frequency would be considerably higher.

Part II, that ignominious false allele:
– The false allele is still hidden among the Pattern Bs and Pattern Cs. We don’t know what percentage of dogs have false alleles, but it surely inflates the actual numbers of Bs and Cs.

Keep in mind, though–the real reason we offered the test in its current form is to identify Pattern As, or genetic normals: those dogs that definitely
– have no prcd gene;
– cannot pass on a prcd gene;
– will never become affected.

This provides the foundation for safe breeding of all dogs. Would we be doing breeders a favor by withholding this test?

Likewise, the test is valuable in reliably identifying Pattern B dogs that will never become affected with PRA.

Why not breed B x B, since B just means that the dog involved is not an affected dog?

It is true that Pattern B means the dog is not affected. But Pattern B dogs have a high risk of being carriers, and B plus B could equal C. Even if you have the best-kept pedigree in town, do you want to take the risk of breeding Cs? Cs can turn out to be affected.

Breedings of B x B yield an average of 1/4 As, 1/2 Bs, 1/4 Cs. So, this breeding can produce Bs at high risk of being carriers and Cs at high risk of being affected.

We were in the process of getting our dog’s championship with the idea of future breeding. She’s a C. Do you recommend terminating this course of action?

We can’t make specific recommendations about how people should handle their dogs. But health-wise and breeding-wise, there’s no absolutely reason to change your plan. Why? Three reasons:

– if your Pattern C dog is between 18 months and 6 years of age and has current and reliable ERG and CERF results, there’s a fair chance she has a false allele and might never get PRA;
– if she does get PRA, she may not be affected significantly before getting her championship, and she will bear that honor for life;
– even if she is affected, she will never produce a PRA-affected pup if bred only to Pattern A dogs–but she could produce a champion.

Analyzing the pedigree of your B or C dog will add information. If your dog has absolutely no prcd-PRA documented in an extensive pedigree that you can trust, chances decrease that it has two true mutant genes. (Keep in mind that in the old days–not that many years ago–owners sometimes didn’t recognize or understand PRA, or may have been afraid to reveal that a dog had it.)

If this test has a large margin of error in diagnosing carriers and affecteds, won’t it limit our gene pool to the point that other problems will become more of an issue?

Whether and how we limit the gene pool is a really important issue. After all, some conditions–hip dysplasia is an example–are so genetically complex that practically every dog has the capacity for some degree of disability, be it so mild it’s almost undetectable or so severe it’s totally disabling. Fortunately, PRA isn’t like that. Clear dogs aren’t mostly clear–they’re clear. The gene isn’t partly recessive–it’s recessive. Carriers and affecteds bred to clears produce disease-free pups.

Indeed, the best thing about the test for prcd-PRA is that it helps keep the gene pool from shrinking. You need to pull a dog with bad hips because scientists don’t know enough about the disease to prevent passing it on. But you’ll never need to pull any dog because of a B or C OptiGen prcd-PRA reading. Bs or Cs bred to As will never produce affected pups.

Often it’s the breeders who suspect they have a problem that test first. If breeders test actively within the breed, they’ll identify increasingly large percentages of As–which will benefit all breeders. In fact, other breed clubs have had exactly that experience. (Each quarter, OptiGen’s website posts the test result percentages.)

How can I use this test to eliminate the defective gene from my line?

Find out everything you can about your dog–then breed or don’t breed according to the absence or presence of traits and health considerations you have no control over. Don’t let the traits you can control dictate your breeding decisions. You now have control over prcd-PRA. An OptiGen-tested Pattern B or C dog can be bred to a Pattern A dog without producing affected offspring. B pups can be bred again to As. This is how you eliminate the defective gene from your line.

Your C dog’s progeny will all be Bs, so you don’t need to test them. (Unsure about how basic genetics works? Check OptiGen’s web site.)

How far away in time and $$ is OptiGen from the new, direct gene test?

The research to solve the false allele is going full steam ahead. It is the main focus of the labs supervised by Drs. Aguirre and Acland. But with research you can’t really say when the result you seek will be found. That’s what research is all about– searching for something that is yet unrevealed. In our case, we know what needs to be done and exactly how to do it, but we don’t know when we’ll get there. All we can say is that every day we are closer because every day more has been done to achieve our goal. That’s why our research needs continued support.

Will the next test be 100% accurate and, if not, what accuracy percentage will it be?

The goal is to develop the next test so that it continues to give the accurate diagnosis of normal, but also gives an absolute (no ifs ands or buts) diagnosis of carrier and affected status–with no false allele problem. The new test will change the categories we attach to dogs, and they will be categorized as Normal, Carrier, or Affected.

How do you sum up the value of this test?

Many beautiful animals over the years developed prcd-PRA and were removed from breeding programs never to be bred again. Now these animals can be used without the fear of producing more blind dogs. The OptiGen prcd-PRA test allows breeders to present their Bs and Cs with pride for all their other prize qualities.

We ask again–would we be doing anyone a favor by withholding this information until the mutated gene is found?

 


For detailed information for the science behind genetic testing, see Mary M. Woodsen’s articles inDog News:

The Genetic Advantage: Baker Institute at Cornell University Releases New Tests for Progressive Retinal Atrophy, May 14, 1999

Marking the Spot: Genetic Testing and the Occasional False-Allele, June 25, 1999

DM

Much of the information below is provided by the American Chesapeake Club,  Teamchesapeake and ChessieInfo.net.


 

What is Degenerative Myelopathy?

Degenerative myelopathy (DM) is a progressive neurological disease that results in destruction of tissue within the spinal cord, usually in middle aged or older dogs. It is similiar to  Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (ALS or Lou Gehrig’s Disease) in humans. The disease’s onset usually occurs between 8 and 14 years of age.

The spinal cord is wrapped in a protecive membrane called the mylin sheath. Like insulation around an electrical cord, it protects the electral pathway of the nerves running down the dog’s spine. When this membrane becomes weak and starts to deterioate, it is known as a myelopathy (myelo=myelin sheath, pathy=disease). Once this protective layer deteriorates, the nerves themselves are at risk of degeneration. DM consists of both myelin and spinal cord nerve fiber degenration.

Since one of the most important functions of the spinal cord is to conduct signals from the brain to the nerves controlling the hind limbs, the principal clinical feature (visible symptom) of degenerative myelopathy is poor control over hindlimb function. Dogs with degenerative myelopathy show a lack of coordination in both hind limbs, together with a degree of muscle weakness.

DM starts slowly and affects the rear legs first. Early signs may go unnoticed by the owner. Slight dragging of a back foot, wearing of the toenails on the affected foot or feet can be an early sign. More advanced signs are dogs that might knuckle over on both paws, cross hind limbs (especially when turning in tight circles) and swing hind limbs wide or take abnormally long strides. Over time, the hindquarters become progressively weaker, until the dog can no longer support its own weight. Eventually, the disease leads to complete paralysis.

It is difficult to accurately diagnose DM as many other conditions can have similiar early symptoms. Injuries, bulging or ruptured vertebral disks, hip dysplasia, cruciate ligament ruptures, and many other things can show as a slight draggng of a hind foot, or wobbling when walking. To properly diagnose DM, all these other issues must be ruled out first before DM is considered. Diagnosis of the disease is only possible through magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) and cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) tap, or through autopsy. Even an MRI diagnosis can be incorrect as it does not pinpoint DM. An MRI only rules out other similiar diseases.

There is currently no available cure for DM. The disease inevitably progresses over a variable period of time – anywhere from 6 months to 3 years. Ultimately, affected dogs lose the ability to walk in both hind limbs and at this point, most owners elect for euthanasia.

 How do Chesapeakes get DM?

DM is an inherited condition, and is polygenic in inheritance. This means that several genes, together with perhaps some environmantal factors, combine to create the disease in dogs. Currently, there is a DNA-based test for DM. It looks at only one of the genes that contributes to DM. The gene it identifies is simple recessive. The inheritance mode(s) of the other gene(s) involved with DM are unknown at this time.

What is a Polygenic Trait?

Polygenic trait:A Polygenic trait is controlled by two or more than two genes (usually by many different genes) at different loci on different chromosomes. These genes are described as polygenes.Every dog, and every human has “good” genes and “bad” genes. When the “good” genes outweigh the “bad” genes, this is considered normal phenotype. When the “bad” genes outweigh the “good” ones, this is considered affected phenotype.Affected dogs still have a certain number of good genes as well. An example of a polygenic trait in dogs is hip dysplasia (HD). HD is caused by many genes that control things like depth of hip socket, bone density, placement and strength of ligaments, tendons and muscles, size of femoral head, length and thickness of femoral neck, and so forth. If a dog has an overall greater number of bad genes for one or more of these traits, that dog will show up as dysplastic on x-ray. However, the dog will also still have some good genes at some of these loci. This is why a dog with bad hips can still produce non-dysplastic offspring, and vice versa, two x-ray normal dogs can still produce dysplastic puppies. A dysplastic dog, simply has fewer good genes to contribute, so it is less likely to produce overall improved hips in its offspring than a radiographically normal dog

A New Problem in Chesapeake Bay Retrievers?

Veterinary neurologists are familiar with DM because it is a common problem inGerman Shepherd dogs. From time to time sporadic cases have also been seen inother breeds. We are now seeing a growing number of Chesapeake BayRetrievers with the condition.

Knowing that this disease is strongly associatedwith particular breeds, it is possible that DM has a strong genetic component inCBRs as well. As yet we do not understand the cause; meaning, we do not haveenough data to ascertain whether the problem is due to a defect within a singlegene or defects in multiple genes acting in concert. More data and pedigrees needto be collected from dogs affected with DM to ascertain whether the problem isworth investigating further to try and locate a genetic component in the CBRbreed.

Trying to Eliminate the Disease

In 2008, a test became available which identifies “one” gene that contributes to DM. Results of the test are reported as clear, carrier, or at risk. At risk dogs are identifed as such, because having this gene alone may not cause the disease. It is an indicator that the dog *may* develop DM at some point, but it is not a certainty. Dogs testing as at risk can still be bred; owners should take into consideration the dog’s overall value as a breeding animal, and the test status of any mates when doing breedings.
Based on test result statistics, the frequency of this allele in Chessies seems high, so eliminating all carriers and all at risk animals would not be feasible. It would result in removing almost 60% of the breeding population. Obviously, this is not realistic. Instead, breeders should strive to reduce the occurrance of affected animals, by knowing their dogs’ testing status, as well as their bloodline’s tendency to actually develop DM symptoms. Carrier and at risk dogs from lines known to develop DM are a higher risk for producing affected offspring than dogs who test carrier or at risk, but are from lines where few or no animals actually develop symptoms.
Research is ongoing into causes and cures for this disease. The University of Missouri is still looking for dogs for its ongoing DM study. Dogs over ten years old, whether symptomatic or not, are needed. This phase of the study is looking for further factors that contribute to DM. Non-symptomatic dogs over the age of ten who have tested At Risk are especially valuable, as they may have factors which prevent development of DM, even when the gene is present. To submit samples for research, contact the University of Missouri.
There is an e-mail support group on Yahoo.com for those who have pets with DM.

 

About Chesapeakes

The History of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever


 

Very few sporting breeds of dogs have had as interesting a history as the Chesapeake Bay Retriever — which in 1964 became the official dog of the State of Maryland.

It is well documented that in the year of 1807, an English ship, trading between Newfoundland and England, was wrecked off of the coast of Maryland. The cargo and crew were rescued by an American ship on its way to Baltimore. Among the cargo taken aboard the American ship CANTON, were two Newfoundland puppies.

The male dog was subsequently named “Sailor,” and the bitch was named “Canton,” after the rescuing vessel.

The dog, which was red in color became the property of John Mercer of West River, Maryland. The bitch which was black and was given to Dr. James Stuart of Sparrows Point, Maryland, in gratitude for the hospitality shown the sailors of the wrecked brig. Both Mercer and Dr. Stuart were ardent hunters of waterfowl and soon discovered that the two dogs were exceptional retrievers.

Their retrieving abilities made their offspring much sought after by local duck hunters. By the mid-1800s the breed was clearly distinguishable. These dogs soon became legendary for their skill and stamina working in the ice-choked waters. Ducks and geese were abundant, but the icy water and rough seas of the Bay area made gunning a tough game.

During the mid to late 1800s the Carroll Island Gun Club, along the Gunpowder River northeast of Baltimore, was host to dignitaries from all over the world. Presidents and statesmen along with wealthy sportsmen who came to shoot over the famous dogs and watch them work. The club members bred “Chesapeakes” exclusively and the Carroll Island Gun Club held the pedigree of the “Chesapeake Bay Dog” for many years. Unfortunately, near the turn of the twentieth century a fire at the club destroyed all of the breeding records.

Many great lines of Chesapeake Bay dogs were taking shape as early as 1880. The breed went by many early names. The Chesapeake Bay Duck Dog, the Brown Winchester, the Otter Dog, the Newfoundland Duck Dog and the Red Chester Ducking Dog were but a few, but by 1887 a definite strain had evolved which were almost always dark brown, shading into a reddish brown. In 1890 the name was finally given as the Chesapeake Bay Retriever. This is when breeding records were started and Baltimore’s Chesapeake Bay Dog Club was formed.

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever was started by chance and developed out of the necessity for a special American purpose. The breed wasn’t developed in a structured breeding program by the wealthy as the Labrador was. Early on it was developed, largely, in an unrecorded, unsophisticated fashion out of the necessity of the times. From the beginning the Chesapeake was subject to rigid selection based solely on his efficiency. The poor specimen was soon discarded and the unsound and weak broke down under the relentless work in all kinds of weather conditions. Only the sound and strong survived to continue this unique American breed.

Puppies

COMMITMENT


Making a commitment to obtain a Chesapeake Bay Retriever puppy shouldn’t be taken lightly. It is a long-term commitment as the average lifespan for a Chesapeake is 8-15 years.

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a hardy active breed. As puppies, Chesapeakes requires a lot of socialization, basic obedience, and a firm but honest owner. If you cannot provide these basic items, then a Chesapeake puppy might not be for you.

Chesapeakes are best suited with a job to do – whether it be retrieving the morning paper to retrieving ducks from a blind to obedience work to agility trials. If you aren’t sure whether a Chesapeake Bay Retriever is right for you, but you’d like to learn more, please contact me. I’m happy to help guide you through making the right decision for you and your family.

For more information: [email protected]

SPRING 2022 BREEDING

Sire TBD x Salty

Sire TBD x Pond Hollow Sea Swept to CoolWater

Salty

Pond Hollow Sea Swept to CoolWater

SPRING 2022

OFA Hips: Good EIC: Clear PRA: Clear DM: Clear Salty is a 24″, 85 lb light sedge girl. She has excellent substance, a thick heavily waved coat, great depth of body and sound movement. She is PERSONALITY PLUS-sweet, intelligent, sassy, easy to live with and HAPPY. Salty has never met a stranger and is a HUGE smiler and will regularly Roo Roo Roo when she’s happy had has something to tell you. Salty is a strong swimmer and a fast stylish retriever. She produces puppies with good conformation, excellent bone and substance, great coats and wonderful dispositions. While we do not place puppies based on color, we anticipate all colors will be possible.